Tamiya M03 Mini Build Tips
After weeks of my mini being a bit slow, I rebuilt it and I think I’ve cracked it. Went racing last night, and it seems a lot quicker, and I was a couple of laps up on people I was struggling against in the last couple of weeks.
It sounded a lot different, eager to accelerate, and it really sang at top speed, it sounded smooth and sweet.
One secret I didn’t tell you in the rebuild post, in case it didn’t work… I used GT85 on the bearings and on the gears, it dries to leave a PTFE coating, and I reckon that’s why it was sounding real nice.
It was handling a lot better too, more predictable, and stable, the suspension moving correctly helped, and I think the smooth ball diff helps it keep the speed in the corners.
Build tips:
- Make sure gearbox is free, give it a spin after every screw in the chassis, make sure it’s as free as possible.
- Take o-rings out of diff outputs, make sure gearbox spins at all points of suspension travel
- Build ball diff nicely, diff grease on big balls, graphite or anti-wear grease on thrust.
- GT85 all bearings and gears, no other grease on them
- Anti-wear grease on rebuildable UJs
- Clean your motor in coca-cola for 2 mins at 3v, wash with water, then motor spray, dry thoroughly. Oil both bronze bearings with very light oil.
- A drop of comms drops on each brush, make sure you let them soak in and power it up for a few seconds on the way to the line.
I just hope I’m now on the pace on Friday nights again, it’s been embarassing the last couple of weeks!
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Hi
How many oring should i put in under the piston for my Mo3 with aluminium shocks. I already uses the three hole piston but my car’s backend keeps coming out at the corners. In other word how can i fix this.
I use s grip tyres all round, sway bars front and back, Coils blue front, yellow back and 500 oil in all four shocks. The ride hight under the motor is about 3.5mm.
Regards
Jakob
O yes and we drive on tarmac
Thx