rcLazy LiPo Weight ™
Using LiPos in a touring car has one big downside: they’re too light.
So you have to add masses of weight to them. Usually the shortcut is to stick weights all over the cells.
But, if you then want to use the cells in a different car, that needs different, or no weights at all, then you’re stuck.
Until I came up with my amazingly simple rcLazy LiPo Weight ™!
How to make one:
- Get a lump of thin lead sheet, cut it a bit shorter than your lipo, then cut it to width by weight, I needed about 150g.
- Then, just fold it over the top of your lipo, perhaps with an extra fold on the outside edge to make it fit.
- Cover it with your favourite Fablon. (I do have a roll of very choice Smarties fablon, but I decided carbon look would be more acceptable by the Touring Car fraternity.)
Negatives
It’s not perfect, the weight it pretty high up in the car, and a bit towards the centre perhaps, but, it’s easy, you just clip it on, tape it down and race.
And, if you’re running a fat lipo, it might be a tight squeeze under your top deck.
Oh, and remember, it’s very bendy, so don’t squash it.
Written by simon.
Connectors for Fans etc. on Radio Controlled Cars
I picked up some of the small 2mm ‘Corally’ type banana connectors, off of ebay [search for: 2mm gold connector], these are ideal for use connecting fans, UBECs, LiPo cut-offs, etc.
http://www.vimeo.com/2991381In my e-savage I had two fans and a UBEC I wanted to connect direct to the battery voltage. I connect two wires, one to each of the +ve and -ve on the Deans battery connectors, and run them to where I want the sockets of for the accessories.
Then, I soldered three of the 2mm sockets in a small triangle, and onto one of the power wires. So 6 2mm sockets in total, 3 +ve, 3 -ve. Heatshrink around each triangle of three, gives a nice neat 3-way socket.
On each fan/ubec I have a 2mm plug on the power wires, heatshrink them again and plug them into the socket.
It’s important that there is no bare connector showing, especially as the +ve and -ve are often positioned next to each other.
Written by simon.
HPI E-Savage 14 Cells How To – Add 2 cells!
A really easy way to go quicker, just add an extra couple of cells! The standard E-Savage is powered by 12 NiMh cells (14.4v), in 2 stick packs of 6.
I had lots of stick packs, which I wanted to keep standard, as I use them in other vehicles, and I have a balancing tray for stick packs. I wanted to run 14 cells in the E-Savage, to make 16.8v, so thought of ways to add two more.
HPI E-Savage 14 Cells How To from rcLazy on Vimeo.
The standard speed control can handle 14 cells okay, and it has two plugs on it, but effectively two of the wires are joined in a loop, so you end up with 12 cells in serial. I figured I could add two more cells to the chain to make 14.
The VERY IMPORTANT thing to consider though, is that the 2 extra cells must be of a higher capacity than the 2 x 6 cell stick pack. This is so that the 2 cells don’t dump first, when you’d hardly notice it wilth 12 cells still powering the car, thus damaging the cells.
So I had pairs of cells of 4200, 4500 and 4500, and I got hold of another 4600 pack, so split it into 3 x 2 cell packs.
Then, I made up an adaptor to plug the 2 cell pack in series with one of the 6 cell packs. It doesn’t really matter which side, as they are treated in series by the speed control.
Then I charged up all 3 packs separately, the six cell packs on the standard dual output GT charger, and the 2 cell pack on my other (Graupner) NiMh charger.
A simple bracket was made for the 2 cell pack to sit in, secured with a velcro strap.
UPDATE:
HPI E-Savage 14 Cells How To UPDATE from rcLazy on Vimeo.
After making this video, I went to the forest and tried the car, and I wacked the 2-cell bracket on a rock and ripped it clean off. I think it was perhaps too low, and that servo tape was not strong enough to hold it.
So I have to go back to the drawing board and modify my design. I figured I needed a 3 sided bracket, higher up out of the way, and fixed more firmly.



